The Baltic Nations. I could roughly pinpoint them on a world map, but didn't know anything about them. I've had no idea about their rich and tumultuous history, their beautiful cities and the economic upswing they have experienced since the collapse of the Soviet Union.
I always like to combine city trips with attending events or visiting friends.
This year the Awakening Europe Conference (a Christian gathering with people from all over Europe) happened to take place in Riga, Latvia. So, what a perfect opportunity (and excuse) to do exactly that and finally get a first glimpse of the baltic states.
I attended the conference's morning and night sessions and spent the afternoons strolling through the city, exploring new places and joined a guided bicycle tour to Riga's less-know jewels. Following you find my highlights.
Downtown
Riga has a beautiful, car-free downtown (Unesco World Heritage) with many ‘Art Nouveau’ buildings of which the 'House of Blackheads' are the most famous ones (on the right).
Downtown is the most popular area and the place you find most restaurants, bars, bakeries and coffee shops. Everything is conveniently within walking distance and there are new things to discover on every corner.
Also, there are many different church buildings of which St. Peter’s Church is the most prominent one.
Riga TV Tower
The Riga TV Tower is with his height of 368 meters the tallest tower in the European Union.
It stands on an island in the river Düna located on the city's outskirt. Due to its remote location there is no public transportation available.
If you are up for a stroll on the undeveloped, vegetated island you can take a streetcar to the 'Elijas Iela' station and walk from there (approx. 30 minutes) – or rent a bicycle and cycle – or just grab a taxi, like most people do.
The tower itself looks like straight from the 70ties – no reconstruction seems to have taken place since then – and gives the illusion of having stepped back in time. We entered through a tiled, vacant tunnel which led into a large, empty lobby where a solitary woman sat at a desk and sold tickets to visitors for 3.70€.
Only a handful other visitors were there. The receptionist led us to an aged elevator which brought us to the 1st floor – 100 meters above the ground. From up there we enjoyed the wonderful view over the city. Sadly, visitors aren't allowed to go up any higher, even though the elevator could take you up to 200 meters.
Upon asking about the tower's 70ties look we were told that there are plans for a substantial reconstruction including a new observation deck 200 meters above ground and a sky walk - realization starting soon.
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Conclusion: The tour did not feel like a tourist attraction at all, more like a throwback in time. It is a fun, short trip for little money with plenty of impressions – from the old soviet building entrance to the turbulent history of the tower and the lovely view over Riga. Definitely recommended.
Bicycle Tour
The moment my aircraft touched Latvian ground I got a text from my two friends telling me to come downtown asap for a city bicycle tour. "Sounds like fun" I thought, "let's do it".
After a light lunch in downtown Riga we strolled to the bike rental office nearby. To our surprise we were told that we are the only participants of the ‘Riga Alternative Bike Tour’ this afternoon, which of course was fine for the three of us.
The bicycle tour turned out to be a jewel. The young guide showed us different districts of Riga, some of them far off the beaten tracks and touristy sights (like the Moscow district), but rich in history.
He lectured us on events and tragedies in Riga and Latvia before, during and after WWII and during Soviets time. He told us about his own experiences growing up as a kid in Riga right after the collapse of the UDSSR and helped us understand the way Latvian people think about their culture, politics, their country and their economic uprise in recent years.
And he was also the one who recommended us to visit the Riga TV Tower.
The tour led us to places that we otherwise wouldn’t have seen, opened our eyes to the historical importance of districts, squares and buildings which we otherwise would have missed and explained us the culture through a local's eyes.
Definitely glad I decided to join my friends on this fun activity.
Bicycle tour by: http://www.rigabiketours.com/
Stalin’s Birthday/Grave Cake
The Academy of Sciences edifice, so the building's official name, is told to have been planned as a gift for Stalin’s Birthday. However, Stalin died the year construction started which is why it also got the nickname ‘Stalin’s Grave Cake’.
The building's architecture reminds strongly of the Empire State Building in New York. Built after WWII and with a hight of 108 meters it was the first skyscraper in Latvia.
The outside appearance and architecture is lovely, the inside though is awful. Moldy smells, dim lighting and time-worn interior welcome visitors in the lobby. Definitely not what I have expected in a building like this.
But for just 5€ an elevator takes you up to the spacious terrace on the top floor, 64 meters above ground. Up there, the great 360°-degree view over Riga is splendid and definitely worth the money. Also, there were no lines and only a view people up there.
Insider tip: A local told us that for Latvians there is no coverage to go up. Meaning you can just walk in with your head down and a grumpy face, straight to the elevator in the far right corner - and voilà , there is your free entrance.
Latvia National Library - Castle of Light
The new National Library of Latvia, also called the ‘Castle of Light’ opened its doors in 2014.
"Its shape is a symbolic expression of the Hill of Glass and the Castle of Light found in Latvian folklore. Legend has it that the Castle of Light sank into an ancient lake and would only arise from the depths when Latvians were once again masters of their own land" *
The American-Latvian architect Gunnar Birkerts offered the plans for the library to the Latvian people as a gift.
The building cost of 193€ million led to great controversy among Latvian people. The unlucky timing of construction start in 2008 at the height of the financial crisis let many people wondering if the hug sum is well spent on such a building in a time of great distress.
The building is 68 meters high and can be visited free of charge. From the top floors one enjoys a phenomenal view over Riga.
Definitely worth a quick stop if you like architecture, modern buildings and great views.
*https://www.inyourpocket.com/riga/castle-of-light-national-library_112365v
The Moscow District
One of Riga’s hidden jewels is the Moscow District. The District has a rich but tragic history. Once a place where merchants spent the nights before entering through the city gates the next morning it was transformed into a Jewish ghetto during German occupation in WWII.
The character of the area has been beautifully described by InYourPocket:
"Long known as an unruly area of town where Russians, Latvians, Jews and Old Believers all dwelled, the Moscow District is still one of the shabbiest sections of town, but it also has plenty of character. […] Its neglected early 20th-century art nouveau masterpieces mingle with traditional 19th-century working-class wooden homes, some of which appear to be on the verge of collapse. Churches of various styles and faiths share common real estate with Soviet housing estates, while meandering cobblestone streets often flank large empty parks."
The reason why the Moscow District is worth a visit is the unique state it is in. It give the visitor a glimpse of how Riga must have looked like during the Soviet Union period.
Many buildings have not yet been remodeled and look shabby and run-down, but in a charming way. 100-year-old mansions, former factory buildings where people during Soviet times worked and wooden houses stand side by side, surrounded by cobblestone streets and the oldest tram tracks in town.
This odd but exciting mix is a fascinating testimony of life, a place where history comes alive. Street Photographer will delight in the abundance of motifs on every street corner.
With some imagination one can easily picture this area in a couple of years being a lovely place for art and culture, coffee shops, a home for start-ups and the creative people of Latvia. Glad I took the detour and got to see all of this.